exhibitions reflecting current trends. The theme continues in the west wing. 92DENMARK: ZEALAND where Palaelojen (TuesFri & Sun noon4pm, Sat 10am2pm; free), run by th local arts society, extends outdoors, turning up a collection of striking sculptur beneath the fruit trees of the bishop's garden. The art rightly draws you awa from the Palace Collections (MaySept daily llam4pm; OctApril Sat & l3pm; 2kr), made up of paintings, furniture and other artefacts belonging to th wedthiest Roskilde families of the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. ® The history of the town recorded in the Roskilde Museiun at Skt 01s Gade ig OuneAug daily llam5pm; SeptMay MonFri & Sun 25pm; 5kr) is a little more enticing, with strong sections on medieval pottery and toys. Look out for the strange photos that satirist Gustav Wied, who lived in Roskilde for many years and whose rooms are reconstructed here, took of his family. ТЪе museum extends to Ringstedgade 6, a shop in 1910style, where locals dutifully turn up to buy traditional saltedherring and sugar loaves. More absorbing, and better known, is the Vikii Ship Museum (daily April Oct 9am5pm; NovMarch 10am4pm; 28kr), in Strandengen on the banks of the flord. Here, five excellent specimens of Viking shipbuilding are given the space they deserve: there's a deepsea trader, a merchant ship, a warship, a ferry and a longship, each one retrieved from the flord where they had been sunk to block invading forces. Together, they give an impressive indication of the Vikings' nautical versatility... and their skill in boatbuilding. Practicalities The gabled radhus near the Domkirke's main entrance houses the Roskilde tourist office (summer MonFri 9am7pm, Sat 9am5pm, Sun 10am2pm; shorter hours rest of the year; «42352700; note that it's due to move during 1993 to Gullandstraede 15). The banks of the §ord make for pleasant walks, and in the evening, apart from the sprinkling of bars around the town centre and some free events in the town park, there's little else to do. Serious revellers make for Copenhagen, but if you're heading towards Funen or further south in Zealand it's not really worth returning to the city just for a night. If you do decide to stay, the most cenhal option is Hotel Prindsen, Algade 13 («42358010; ®); a kilometre away, SR Hotel, on Maglegardsvej (®42356688; ®), sometimes lowers its rates at weekends and in midsummer. There's a campsite («46757996; midApril to midSept) on the wooded edge of the Ijord an appealing setting which makes it very crowded at peak times; if s linked to the town centre by bus #602. The youth hostel is further out, set amid countryside about 3km from the middle of Roskilde at Herhusene 61 («42352184). It's open all year and buses #601 and #604 from the railway station pass close by; get off after the hospital and take a lessthanobvious walk along a footpath through a field.