West from Copenhagen: Roskilde and around There's very little between Copenhagen and the west Zealand coast in the way of things to see and explore, except for the ancient former Danish capital of ROSraLDE, less than half an hour by train from the big city. Tbere's been a community here since prehistoric times and later the Roskilde Qord provided a route to the open sea utilised by the Vikings. But it was the arrival of Bishop Absalon in the twelfth century that made the place the base of the Danish church and, as a consequence, the national capital. Importance waned after the Reformation and Roskilde came to function mainly as a market for the neighbouring rural communities which it still does, as well as being dormitory territory for Copenhagen commuters. In high season, especially, it can be crammed with daytrippers seeking the dual blasts from the past supplied by its royal tombs and Viking boats; and the town sees a massive influx every July, when it hosts the Roskilde Festival northern Europe's biggest openair rock event. Yet at any other time, or for more than a swift visit, the ancient centre is one of Denmark's most appealing towns, and the surrounding countryside quiet and unspoilt The Town ТЪе major pointer to the town's former status is the fabulous Roskilde Domkirke 6ayAug MonSat 9am4.45pm, Sun 12.304.45pm; April & Sept MonFri 9am4.45pm, Sat 11.30am4.45pm, Sun 12.304.45pm; OctMarch MonSat 10am3.45pm, Sun 12.303.45pm; 3kr), founded by Bishop Absalon in 1170, on the site of a tenthcentury church erected by Harald Bluetooth, and finished during the fourteenth century although portions have been added right up to the twentieth century. The result is a mishmash of architectural styles, though one which hangs together with suфrising neatness; every square inch seems adorned by some curious mark or etching. But it's the claustrophobic collection of coffins containing the regal remains of twenty kings and seventeen? R о S к I L D El 9] queens in four large royal chapels that really catch the eye. The most richly endowed chapel is that of Christian IV, a previously austere resting place jazzed up in typical early nineteenthcentury Romantic style with bronze statues, walllength frescoes and vast paintings of scenes from his reign. A striking contrast is provided by the simple redbrick chapel just outside the cathedral, into which Frederik DC was laid in 1972. Try to be in the cathedral just before the hour to see and hear the animated medieval clock above the main entrance: a model of Saint Jergen gallops forward on his horse to wallop the dragon and the hour is marked by the creature's squeal of death. From one end of the cathedral, a roofed passageway, the Arch of Absalon, leeds into the yellow Bishop's Palace. The incumbent bishop nowadays confines himself' to one wing, making way for three showplaces for (predominantly) Danish art ТЪе main building houses the Museum for Contemporary llam5pm. Sat & Sun noon4pm; free) and its diverse temporary .