It's the unusual aspects of the monarch's design prolific use of towers and spires, pointed Gothic arches and flowery window ornamentation that still stand out, despite the changes wrought by fire and restoration. You can see the exterior of the castie for free simply by walking through the main gates, across the seventeenthcentury Sshaped bridge, and into the central courtyard. Since 1882, the interior has functioned as a museum of Danish history, largely funded by the Carlsberg brewery magnate Carl Jacobsen in an attempt to create a Danish Versailles, and heighten the nation's sense of history and cultural development. It's a good idea to buy (25kr), or at least try and borrow, the illustrated guide to the museum, since without it the contents of the sixtyodd rooms are barely comprehensible. Many of the rooms are suфrisingly free of furniture and household objects, and attention is drawn to the ranks of portraits along the walls a motiey crew of nobility, statesmen and royalty, who between them ruled and misruled Denmark for centuries. A succession of flat faced kmgs and thin consorts gives way in the later rooms to politicians, scientists and writers. Two rooms deserve special mention. ТЪе chapel, where monarchs were 3Mointed between 1671 and 1840, is exquisite, its vaults, pillars and arches Suded and embellished, and the contrasting black marble of the gallery riddled jft gold lettering. The shields, in tiered rows around the chapel, are those of the "lights of the Order of the Elephant, who sat with the king in the late seven ntii centuiy. ТЪе Great Hall, above the chapel, is a reconstinction, but this oesn't detract from its beauty. It's bare but for the staggering wall and ceiling pcorations: tapestries, wall reliefs, portraits and a glistening black marble fire In Christian IVs day the hall was a ballroom, and tiie polished floor still up some fancy footwork as you slide up and down its length. Away from the often crowded interior, the gardens, on the far side of the lake, have some photogenic views of the castle from their stepped terraces and are a good spot for a rest The quickest way to them is through the narrow Mint Gate to the left of the main castle building, which adjoins a roofedin bridge leading to the King's Wing. While in Hillerod, you should also visit the Money ffistorical Musemn (open during banking hours; free) at Slotsgade 1618. During the reigns of Frederik II and Christian IV all Danish coins were minted in Hillerod Besides samples of these, the place displays currencies from all over the world. Practicalities Few of Hillerod's hotels can match the prices you might find in Copenhagen although the town does have a hotel run by the Danish YMCA, at Slotsgade 5 («49260189; (D) useful if you're on a tight budget. The only other budget accommodation is the campsite ("42264854; Easter to midSept) at Blytaekkervej.