Gilleleje and Tisvildeleje From Hombaek, trains continue along the coast to GILLELEJE, another pretty fishing village that does a roaring tourist trade and one with as much appeal as Hombaek as a shortterm stopover. Unfortunately, accommodation tends to be booked far in advance and the only hotel in town is the expensive Swiss4;halet styled Hotel Strand, Vesterbrogade 4B (48300174; ®). The budget option is the allyear campsite, just outside the village at Bregneredvej 21 (e42719755). An alternative is to head west to the youth hostel in Tisvildeleje (see below). While in Gilleleje, negotiate at least some of the fooath which runs along the top of the dunes, where, in 1835, Seren Kirkegaard took lengthy contemplative wdks, later recalling: "I often stood there and reflected over my past life. Ibe force of the sea and the struggle of the elements made me realise how unimportant 1 was." Ironically, so important was Kirkegaard to become, that a monument to him now stands on the path, bearing his maxim: Truth in life is to live for an idea." From Gilleleje, bus #343 largely follows the coast to TISVILDELEJE, where there are yet more beaches and Tisvildhegn (locally called simply "Hegn"). з forest of windtormented trees planted here during the eighteenth centurj' to prevent sand drifts. The youth hostel (=42309850) forms part of a new holiday complex, Sankt Helene. Centeret, at Bymarken 30. НIL L ? R 0 D89 Inland from the coast It's hard to continue along the coast without first detouring inland, and, unless you're making for the ferries to Jutland which depart from Hundested (reached by train from Hillered), the effort is hardly worthwhile. Trains from both Tisvildeleje and Gilleleje run to Hillerod, in the heart of north Zealand, and thanks to its magnificent castie much the place to make for. On the way, though, you might spend a few hours at another royal residence, Fredensboi Slot Guly only 1 5pm; 7.50kr), built by Frederik IV to commemorate the 1720 Peace Treaty with Sweden. Even if the castle is closed, its grand, statuelined gardens (open all year; free), stretching down to an expansive lake, have distinct appeal. HiMer0d:rederiksborg Slot fflLLEROD, half an hour by train from Helsingor, and a similar distance from Copenhagen (last stop on line E of the Strain network), has a castie which pushes the more famous Kronborg well into second place: Frederiksborg Slot (daily MaySept 10am5pm; April & Oct 10am4pm; NovMarch llam3pm; 30kr), which lies decorously across three small islands within an artificial lake. Buses #701 and #703 run from the train station to the castle but walking to it only takes about twenty minutes, following the signs iSlottet) through the town centre. The castie was the home of Frederik II and birthplace of his son Christian IV. At the turn of the seventeenth century, under the auspices of Christian, rebuilding began in an unorthodox Dutch Renaissance style.