Strandvej); or take bus #340 from the station and get out just after the sports stadium. The campsite, at Sundtoldvej 9 («49215856), is closer to town and also by a beach, between the main road Lappen (which begins where Skt Annagade ends) and the sea. The usual pizza and fastfood outlets are twoapenny around Stengade, but for healthier eating, Kloster Cafeen, Skt Annagade 35, is the prime lunchtime spot for 'te t menu and sizeable sandwiches. A little more expensively, there's fine Banish food in the atmospheric Hos Anker, Bramstragde 1, or Fcergegarden, ngade 81b. Given the proximity of the capital, nightlife of note is a rare commodity in Helsinger, but for an evening drink, stroll the streets on either Sloe of Stengade, where there are several decent bodegas (bars). Rowdier boozing on at the top end of Axeltorv, the bar here popular with Swedes taking of Denmark's more liberal licensing laws, on cross from Helsinger to Helsingborg in Sweden. The main tem'f probably the best option, is the Scanolines boat leaving from the main onl station (see above) and costing 35kr. Cheaper, although •y by a few kroner (27kr return), is the Sundbusseme crossing, by small craft which are often heavily buffeted by the choppy waters. If s perfectly feasible, and on a sunny day very enjoyable, to rent a bike from the courtyard behind the tour ist office (401a a day) and cross to Helsingborg for a day's cycling along the Swedish coast. But te food and drink with you both are much more expensive in Sweden than in Denmark. Onwards from Helsinger: the North Zealand coast Some of the best beaches in Zealand and several picturepostcard fishing villages are within easy reach of Helsinger, either by bike, local buses or a network of private trains (Copenhagen Card valid, InterRail and Eurail not). No one place has the power to hold you for long but the region is hard to beat for a few days oi idle relaxation after exhausting yourself in Copenhagen. What's more, from the western extremity there's a ferry to Grena in Jutland, putting you within striking distance of Denmark's second major city, Arhus. Hellebsek and Hornbsek A string of fine sands can be found simply by following Ndr. Strandvej from Helsinger towards the sleepy village of HEIiEBCK, some 5km north. At Hellebaek itself, part of the beach forms a wellknown, if unofficial, venue for nude bathing. Trains from Helsinger stop at Hellebaek and continue for 7km to the moderately larger HORNBK, blessed with excellent beaches and ace views over the sea towards Kullen, the rocky promontory jutting out from the Swedish coast. Tbough fast becoming a playground for yachtowners and their cronies, Hornbaek is a lovely spot to stay over, hi a library just off the main street, the tourist office (Mon, Tues & Thurs 27pm, Wed & Fri 10am4pm, Sat 10aml3pm; «49704773) can find private rooms and summer cottages, but the cheapest berth is the exceptionally inexpensive campsite (я422(Ю223; midApril to mid Sept), within a few minutes' walk of the train station.