It seems churlish to mention individual items, but the museum's American section, in the south corridor, sticks in the mind. It includes some devastating pieces by Edward Kienholz, Malcolm Morley's scintillatingly gross Pacific Telephone Los Angeles Yellow Pages, in which the telephone directory cover expands to monstrous proportions and coffee stains rib the city skyline like a weird metallic grid, and (in the reading room) Jim Dines' powerful series, The Desire. You'll also find some of Giacometti's strange, gangly figures haunting a room of their own off the north corridor, and an equally affecting handful of sculptures by Max Ernst, squatting outside the windows and leering inwards. Except for some collages by Arthur Юэрске, and paintings by various Danish luminaries of the CoBrA group, homegrown artists have a rather low profile, although their work is often featured in temporary exhibitions. 0Г Rrst iinpressions of HELSING0R are none too enticing. The bus stops outside e noisy train station, outside which Havnepladsen is usually fiill of transit lingers loitering around fastfood stalls before making for the ferry terminal, to T fro"' the hustle, Helsinger is really a quiet and Ukeable the R 1 • the fourkilometre strip of water linking the North Sea and ¦шро ribrought the town prosperity when, in 1429, the Sound Toll was decii f Passing vessels an uptum only matched in magnitude by the severe e toUowing the abolition of the toll in the nineteenth century. Shipbuilding brought back some of the town's selfassurance, but today it's once again the whisker of water between Denmark and Sweden, and the ferries across it to Helsingborg, which account for most of Helsingar's throughtraffic. The Town The town's other great draw, on a sandy curl of land extending seawards, is Kionborg Slot (midJuly to midAug daily 9.30am5pm; May to midJuly & mid Aug to midSept daily 10.30am5pm; April & midSept to Oct TuesSun 11am 4pm; Nov & March TuesSun llam3pm; 20kr, 34kr to include entry to Maritime Museum), principally because of its literary association as Elsinore Castle, whose ramparts Shakespeare's Prince Hamlet supposedly strode. Actually, the play Wright never visited Helsinger, and his hero was based on Amleth (aka Amled), a tenthcentury character shrouded in the fogs of Danish mythology and certainly predating the castle. Nevertheless, there are still hundreds of requests each year for the whereabouts of "Hamlet's bedroom" and a thriving Hamlet souvenir business. During the winter, guided tours leave from the entrance every halfhour; summer numbers make these impossible and, instead, a wellinformed attendant hovers in every room ready to answer questions. During the sixteenth century, Frederik II instigated construction of the present castle on the site of Erik of Pomerania's fortress, commissioning the Dutch architects van Opbergen and van Paaschen, who took their ideas from the buildings of Antwerp.