Except for the memorable vistas of the northern coast, and the explorable smaller islands off southern Zealand and Bomholm to the east, however, you'll find the soft green terrain varies little; and, unless you're a true nature lover, you'll soon want to push on (which is easily done) to the bigger cities of Funen and Jutland. North Zealand: Helsinger and the coast The coast north of Copenhagen, as far as Helsing0r, rejoices under the tag of "Danish Riviera"; a handy label to describe its line of tiny onetime fishM hamlets now inhabited almost exclusively by the extremely rich. It's best seen ЬУ bus (#188) from Klampenborg, last stop on line С of the Strain system, b"' although the views are nice and the beaches beckon, more often than not thj sands are private and guarded by German Shepherd dogs. A frequent tr service, slightly quicker than the bus, also makes the journey from Copenhag to Helsinger, but, unless you break the trip, you'll see much less the views u® the rail line are obscured by trees. HELSING0RFS5 1Ъе Karen Biixen museum, Humlebaek and Louisiana There are two good reasons to stop before Helsinger. A fifteenminute walk from Rungsted Kyst train station, the Karen Biixen Museum (MaySept daily 10am 5pm; Octj'ril WedFri l4pm, Sat & Sun llam4pm; 30kr) is sited in the family home of the writer who, while long a household name in Denmark for her short stories (often written under the penname of Isak Dinesen) and outspoken opinions, enjoyed a resurgence of international popularity during the mid1980s when Out of Africa a Hollywood film based on Blixen's 1937 biographical account of nmning a coffee plantation in Kenya was released. After returning from Africa, Biixen lived here until her death in 1962, and much of the house is maintained as it was during her final years. Texts describing Blixen's eventful life (among other things, her father committed suicide and she married the twinbrother of the man she loved) line the walls and the exhibits include a collection of first editions and the tiny typewriter she used in Africa. Even if you've never read a word of Blixen's, ifs hard not to be impressed by her spirit and strength, which shines through the museum. After seeing the house, make for the welltended flower garden, where Blixen's simple grave lies beneath a protective beech tree. In HUMLEBK, the next community of any size, you'll find Louisiana (daily 10am5pm, Wed until 10pm; SOkr, student reductions), a modem art museum on the northern edge of the village at Gammel Strandvej 13, a short walk from Hunilebaek train station. Even if you go nowhere else outside Copenhagen, it would be a shame to miss this: the setting alone is worth the journey, harmoniously combining art, architecture and the natural landscape. The entrance is in a nineteenth4;entury villa, off which two carefully and subtly designed modem corridors contain the indoor collection, their windows allowing views of the outside sculpture park and the 0resund.