He was a prolific author, sometimes featest phUo writing under pseudonyms. His •belaidtheen by 1846 and are generally claimed to foundabons of existentiaUsm. Out from the centre Unlike many other major European cities, Copenhagen has only a few miles of drab housing estates on its periphery before the countryside begins. A number of things are worth venturing out from the centre to see, although none of them need keep you away from the main action for long. Assistens Kirkegard Only a few minutes on foot from Indre By is Assistens rorkegard: a cemeter\ built to cope with the dead from the 171112 plague. More interestingly, it contains the graves of Hans Christian Andersen and Seren Kierkegaard both well signposted, although not from the same entrance. If you get lost, look at the handy catalogue by the gate on Kapelvej. The cemetery is off Nerrebrogade in the district of Nerrebro: walk from the Nerreport station along Frederiksborggade and over the lake. Alternatively buses #5, #7, #16 and #18 run along the graveyard's edge. Grundtvigs Kirke Slightly further out is Grundtvigs Kirke (midMay to midSept MonSat 9am 4.45pm, Sun noonpm; rest of the year MonSat 9am4pm, Sun noonlpm), an astonishing yellowbrick creation whose gabled front resembles a massive church organ which rises upwards and completely dwarfs the row of terraced houses that share the street. The church, named after and dedicated to the founder of the Danish folk high schools, was designed by Jensens Klint and his son in 1913, but was not finished until 1926. To reach it takes about twent) minutes from the city centre on buses #10, #16, #19 or #21. Get off in the small square of Bispetorv soon after passing the Bispebjerg Hospital; the church itself is in Pa Bjerget. Amager and Drager If the weather's good, take a trip to the Amager beaches, reachable on bus #12 along 0resundsvej (ask for Helgoland). On the other side of the airport from the beaches lies the village of DRAG0R, an atmospheric cobbled fishing village from where ferries leave for limhamn in Sweden. It has good local history collections in the Drag0r Museum (MaySept TuesFri 25pm, Sat & Sun noon6pm; lOkr), by the harbour, and the Amager Museum QuneAug WedSun llani 3pm; rest of the year Wed & Sun llam3pm; lOkr), a few minutes' walk away. From the city, te bus #30 or #33. Very soon, Amager and its immediate area could become a gigantic construction site. All that's needed is the two billion kroner to finance the CopenhagenMalmo road and rail link, which optimists believe could be operating by the year 2000. Bakken If you're in the mood for an amusement park but can't face (or afford) Tivoli. venture out to BAKKEN (late March to late Aug daily 2pmmidnight; free), close to the Klampenborg stop at the end of line С on the Strain network. Set in a comer of Kongens Dyrehave (the Royal Deer Park), it's a lot more fun than its city counterpart, and besides the usual swings and rollercoasters, offers easy walks through woods of sturdy oaks and beeches.