CHRISTIANIA
You'll also find a few pornography shops remaining fiom the old days, and the newer Erotic Museum, Vesterbrogade 31 OuneSept MonSat lOamllpm; OctMay daily noon8pm; 43kr), a mix of amusing photos, statues, sex toys, and even waxworks, spread across four floors of a former brothel.
At Vesterbrogade 59 is the City Museum (TuesSun MaySept 10am4pm; OctApril l4pm; free), which has reconstructed ramshackle house exteriors and tradesmen's signs from early Copenhagen. Looking at these makes the impact of Christian IV resoundingly apparent. There's a large room recording the form and cohesion which this monarch and amateur architect gave the city, even including a few of his own drawings. The rest of the city's history is told by paintings far too many paintings, in fact and you should head straight upstairs for the room devoted to Soren Kierkegaard, filled by bits and bobs that form an intriguing footnote to the life of the nineteenthcentury Danish writer and philosopher, and much the most interesting part of the museum (see box below).
The Carlsberg Brewery and Frederiksberg Have
Further along Vesterbrogade (save your legs by taking bus #6 or #18), down Enghavevej and along Ny Carlsbergvej, is the Carlsberg Brewery, the tours (MonFri Ham & 2pm; free), beginning fiom the hut to the left, are well worth joining, if only for the free booze provided at the end. If you're in the vicinity, pass by anytime to admire the Elephant Gate four elephants carved in granite supporting the building that spans the road.
Vesterbrogade finishes up opposite the Frederiksberg Have, which contains the Frederiksberg Palace, now used as a military academy and closed to the public. Throughout the eighteenth century, the city's top nobs came here to mess about in boats along the network of canals that dissect the copious limetree groves, and its pleasant surrounds are now a popular weekend picnic spot for locals, and refreshingly free of tourists. While here, you might call in at the entertaining Storm P. Museum (MayAug TuesSun 10am4pm; SeptApril Wed, Sat & Sun 10am4pm; 20kr), by the gate facing Frederiksberg Alle, packed with the satirical cartoons that made "Storm P." (Robert Storm Petersen) one of the most popular bylines in Danish newspapers fiom the 1920s. Even if you don't understand the Danish captions, you'll leave the museum with an insight into the national sense of humour.
S0REN KIERKEGAARD
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