The name is now synonymous with Copenhagen at its most innocently pleasurable, and the opening of the gardens each year on (or around) May 1 is taken to mark the beginning of summer. There are fairground rides, fireworks (Wed, Fri & Sal nights) and fountains, and nightly entertainment in the central arena that includes everything from acrobats and jugglers to the midAtlantic tones of various fixedgrin crooners. Naturally, it's overrated and overpriced, but an evening spent wandering among the revellers of all ages indulging in the mass consumption of ice cream is an experience worth having once. Close to the Vesterbrogade entrance is the predictable Holography Museum (daily midApril to midSept lOammidnight; rest of the year 10am6pm; 32kr) once you've seen through one hologram you've seen through them all and the abysmal Louis Tussaud's Wax Museum (daily May to midSept lOamllpm; midSept to April 10am4.30pm; 42kr). On the other side of Tietgensgade from Hvoli is the dazzling Ny Carlsberj Glyptotek (MayAug TuesSun lOampm; SeptApril TuesSat noon3pm, Sui lOampm; ISlo", free to art students and ISIC or FIYTO cardholders), opened in 1897 by brewer Carl Jacobsen as a venue for ordinary people to see classical an exhibited in classical style. Centrepiece is the conservatory: "Being Danes," said Jacobsen, Ve know more about flowers than art, and during the winter this greenery will make people pay a visit; and then, looking at the palms, they raigbi find a moment for the statues." It's an idea which caught on, and even now tli( gallery is wellused and not just by art lovers: there's a programme of electronic music daily at 1pm, as well as a seasonal roster of other free events; pick up! schedule on entry. As for the contents, this is by far Copenhagen's finest gallery, with a stirriB array of Greek, Roman and Egyptian art and artefacts, as well as what is reckonei! • to be the biggest (and best) collection of Etruscan art outside Italy. There are too, excellent examples of nineteenth4;entury European art, including a compl«f collection of Degas casts made from the frae working sculptures he left on№ death, Manet's Absinthe Drinker, and two small cases containing tiny caricatufi' heads by Honore Daumier. Easily missed, but actually the most startling rooffl' the place, is an antechamber wift just a few pieces early work by Man И some Chagall sketches and a Picasso pottery plate. Beyond the Tivoli Gardens The streets between Vesterbrogade and Isteade, just west of the station, used to be Copenhagen's token redlight area, and the only part city where you may have felt unsafe. Over recent years, the low ; attracted students and a large number immigrant families: walk along Iste and you're likely to see dreadlocked rastas, and Turks sipping tea u® glasses, and to stumble across a number of diverse (but uniformly wellP ethnic eateries.