pjred by, Andersen's stories; only the writer's recreated study and a few souve of his travels relate directly to his life. To find the definitive Andersen collection youll need to travel to his birthplace, Odense (see Chapter Two). The far end f Nyhavn is also the departure point for the catamaran to Malmo, boats to Renne " and, a block away at the end of Skt Аппаг Plads, ferries for Oslo. " pom Skt Annae Plads, Amaliegade leads under a colonnade into the cobbled Anjalienborg Plads, with a statue of Frederik V in its centre that was reputedly more expensive than the total construction cost of the four identical Rococo oalaces which flank it. Dating from the mideighteenth century, the quartet of ifflsing buildings provides a sudden burst of welcome symmetry into the city's crenerally haphazard layout. Two of them now serve as royal residences and there's a changing of the guard each day at noon when the monarch is at home generally attended by gangs of cameratoting tourists. Between the square and the harbour are the lavish gardens of Amaliehaven, while in the opposite direction looms the great marble dome of Frederiksldrke, also known as "Marmorkirken" (MonSat llam2pm; free guided tours Sat 11am). Modelled on and intended to rival St Peter's in Rome, the church was begun in 1749, but because of its enormous cost lay unfinished until a century and a half later, when its most prominent feature (one of Europe's largest domes) was completed with Danish rather than the more expensive Norwegian marble. If you can coincide with the guided tour, the reward is the chance to climb first to the whispering gallery and then out onto the rim of the dome itself. From here there's a stunning, and usually blustery, view over the sharp geometry of Amalienborg and across the sea to the factories of Malmo in Sweden. Further along Bredgade, at no. 22, the former Danish Surgical Academy now stores the Medical History Museum (guided tours only; in English on Wed, Thurs, Fri & Sun at 2pm; free) not a place to visit if you've spent the morning on a brewery binge. The enthusiastically presented hourlong tour features aborted foetuses, straiackets, methods of syphilis treatment, amputated feet, eyeballs and a dissected head. The Kastellet and around Bredgade concludes at Esplanaden, facing the green space of the Churchill Park. "Sht, the German armoured car that was commandeered by Danes and th bnng news of the Nazi surrender marks the entrance to the Museum of ад Dmish Resistance Movement (May to midSept TuesSat 10am4pm, Sun Inm to April TuesSat llam3pm. Sun llam4pm; free), ally, the Danes put up little resistance to the German invasion, but later the grTk®" ® systematically wretched time. The museum records the AalW к organised response and has a special section on the youths from weren't ri themselves into the "Churchill Club". Feeling the adults 'elegranhof fifteenyearolds set about destroying German mall, but •' '''ong up cars and trains and stealing weapons.