tively large place holding an impressive quantity of musical instruments jjjj soundmaking devices, spanning the globe and the last thousand years. Naturally the bulk come from Denmark and there are some subtle comments on the socia] fabric of the nation to be gleaned from the yellowing photos of countrv dances and other gettogethers, hung alongside the instruments. Many musical recordings can be listened to through headphones, and guided tours take place every Wednesday at 11am. Less musical sounds are provided by the cars hurtling along Norre Voldgade, at the top of Kultorvet, marking the edge of the pedestrianised streets of the old citj. There are two reasons to queue up at the traffic lights and cross over: the first Is the fruit and vegetable market and Saturday flea market on Israel Plads; the second is the Workers Museum at Remmersgade 22 (TuesFri 10am3pm, Sat & Sun llam4pm; 25kr), an engrossing and thoughtful guide to workingclass life in Copenhagen from the 1930s to the 1950s using reconstructions and authentic period materials. Entering the museum, you can walk down a reconstructed Copenhagen street complete with passing tram and a shop window hawking the consumer durables of the day, and continue, via a backyard where washing hangs drying, through a printing works subsidised by the Marshall Plan, and into a coffee shop, which sells an oldfashioned coffee and chicory blend by the cup. Elsewhere, mockup house interiors contain family photos, newspapers and TVs showing newsreels of the time. The fixed exhibits are backed up by some outstanding temporary exhibitions from labour movements around the world. North of Gothersgade There's a profound change of mood once you cross Gothersgade, the road mart ing the northern perimeter of Indre By. The congenial alleyways and early medie val markers of the old city give way to long, broad streets and a number of proud aristocratic structures. There is a whole group of these in the harbour area na; Nyhavn, the obvious route if you're walking from Indre By, although perhaps tKj most impressive building of dl is Rosenborg Slot, a short way to the west awf from the harbour and close to several major museums. i From Nyhavn to Esplanaden , Running from Kongens Nytorv, a slender canal divides the two sides of wide but quite short street, until recently frequented by docked sailors earned the area a racy reputation but now in the advanced stages of tion. One or two of the old tattoo shops remain, but they're mostly here to cially flavour the atmosphere and are outnumbered by small but restaurants and a growing band of refined antique shops. The canalside is picturesque, however, with yachts moored on the water and preserved centuiy houses lining the street, three of which (nos. 18, 20 and 67) at various times by Hans Christian Andersen. At no. 69, the Hans Cnnj Andersen Centre (daily irilSept 10am9pm; OctMarch noon5pn manages to fill five floors with a motley collection of sculptures and NORTH OF G0THERSGADES9 .