To Sweden, the twiceweekly coach reaches Stockholm in about 47 hours, for around ?165 return; to Gothenburg takes 41 hours (around ?145 return); to Malmo 37 hours (around ?130 return). Finland Is 65 hours away: if you can take the journey, coaches run twice weekly to Helsinki for ?120 oneway, ?207 return. BY CAR; THE FERRIES Ferry connections from Britain link Harwich and Newcastle with Denmark, western Sweden and southern Norway. Fares aren't cheap, but discounts and special deals can cut costs greatly. Scandinavian Seaways, for example, offer Seapex fares, which have to be booked at least 21 days before departure (and don't allow travel in either direction on a Friday or Saturday). There are also up to fifty percent discounts on the basic fares for Senior Citizens, children from four to fifteen years old, students and railpass holders. Unless otherwise stated, we've quoted the cheapest possible fares below for a oneway passage with a cabin or reclining seat. Not surprisingly, all fares are usually at their lowest between January and March. TO DENMARK 61 BASICS Scandinavian Seaways sail from Harwich to Esbjerg four to five times a week in summer, three times a week in winter, and the trip takes nearly 19 hours. During the summer they also make the twentyhour crossing from Newcastle to Esbjerg twice a week. There's a oneway fare on both crossings of ?115 in high season, though Seapex deals can bring the price down to about ?175 return in high season, ?99 return low season; at any time of year add on around ?40 for your car. TO NORWAY The only direct service from the UK to Norway is with Color Line, which sails from Newcastle to StavangerBergen two to three times a week 20hr to Stavanger and 26hr to Bergen. Fares are most expensive from midJune to midAugust when oneway foot passenger fares start at ?72 (reclining chair); summer car packages cost from ?200 oneway for a car and up to four passengers. In the winter fares drop to from ?42 oneway (fourberth couchette) for foot passengers. Taking a car costs from ?40 each way, year round; motorbikes cost ?9 each way; bicycles go free. Students receive a 25 percent discount on all fares. A more convoluted service links the Shetland Islands (Lerwick) with Bergen, a 12hour crossing that's part of the longer IcelandFaroes ShetlandBergen route with Smyril Line. The route was suspended at the end of 1992, but there's a possibility it might be reinstated: P&O Scottish Ferries in Aberdeen («0224572615) can advise about the latest situation. TO SWEDEN To Sweden, Scandinavian Seaways operates two routes: from Harwich to Gothenburg three to seven times weekly, a 24hour trip, and July and August only Newcastle to Gothenburg once weekly, a 26hour journey. Prices are from ?88 oneway (?143 in high season) for a couchette bed, although a Seapex ticket can get you there and back for between ?110 and ?190 depending FERRY OPERATORS Color Line, Tyne Commission Quay, Albert Edward Dock, North Shields, NE29 6EA («0912961313).