As for timings, DSffs Kereplan (25kr from any newsagent) details all DSB train, bus and fern services inside (and longdistance routes outside) the country, including the local Copenhagen S train system and all private services, and is a sound investment if you're planning a lot of travelling within the country. If you're not, smaller timetables detailing specific routes can be picked up for free at tourist offices and station ticket offices. ¦ Buses There are only a handful of longdistance bus services in Denmark; CopenhagenArhus (ISOkr), ConhageAalborg (I65kr), Copenhagen Hants oinn (203kr) and EsbjergFrederikshavn nri Th'® ever likely to W trl 4uite a saving over feal I'®'' hile just as efficient long trm'V" fortable than trams. Where buses really come into their own however, is in the few areas where trains are scarce or the connections complicated. Much of Funen and northeast Jutland are barely touched by trains, for example, and if you're travelling from Esbjerg to Frederikshavn or Aalborg you save several hours and a lot of timetable reading by taking the bus. ¦ Ferries Ferries link all the Danish islands, and vary in size from the traincarrying DSB ferries among Zealand, Funen and Jutland, to raftlike affairs connecting tiny, isolated settlements a few minutes off the (socalled) mainland. Where applicable, train and bus fares include the cost of ferry crossings (although you can also pay at the terminal and walk on), while the smaller ferries commonly charge 1040kr for foot passengers. Get the full picture from the nearest tourist office, and check "Travel Details" at the end of each chapter for frequencies and journey times. ¦ Planes Domestic flights, operated by SAS, are hardly essential in a country of Denmark's size, but can be handy if you're in a rush: from Copenhagen, it's less than an hour's flying time to anywhere in the nation. There are three kinds of fare: "red departures" are returns valid on weekdays: "green departures" are weekend returns and slightly pricier: and "blue departures" which are valid for travel anytime and hence are the most expensive, with returns costing double that of a single. To give an idea of the differences, a blue single ticket costs the same as a red return. If you're under 26 or over 60, regular airfares can be cut with the 300кг standby ticket: get details from an SAS desk or tourist office. Remember, too, that continuing on a domestic flight after arriving in Denmark on an international one will rarely cost more than the international fare. ¦ Cycling GETTING A R О и N D I 31 Cycling is the best way to appreciate Denmark's pastoral, and mostly flat, landscape, as well as being a good method of getting about in the towns. Most country roads have sparse vehicle traffic and all large towns have cycle tracks though watch out for sometimes lessthan careful drivers on main roads. Bikes can be rented at nearly all youth hostels and tourist offices, at most bike shops, and some railway stations, for around 4050kr per day, 200kr per week, plus there's often a 200kr deposit.