DENMARK33 Introduction Delicately balanced between Scandinavia oroper and mainland Europe, Denmark is a difficult country to pin down. In many ways it shares the characteristics of both regions: it s an EC member, and has prices and drinking laws that are broadly In line with the rest of Europe. But Danish social policies and style of government are distinctly Scandinavian: social benefits and the standard of living are high, and though these days leaning to the right Its politics are very much that of the consensus. It may seem hard to believe, but it wasn't so long ago that tiny Denmark ruled a good chunk of Northern Europe. Since imperialist times, however, the country's energies have been turned inwards, towards the development of a wellorganised but rarely overbureaucratic society that does much to foster a pride in Danish arts and culture and uphold the freedoms of the individual. Indeed, once here, it becomes easy to share the Danes' puzzlement over why other small, exempire owning nations haven't followed their example. ¦ Where to go While Denmark is the easiest Scandinavian country in which to travel both in terms of cost and distance the landscape itself is the region's least dramatic: very green, fiat and rural, largely farmland interrupted by innumerable fairytale hftimbered villages. There are surprisingly few urban settlements. Apart from a scattering of small islands, three main land masses make up cwntrythe islands of Zealand and Funen iXlterinr 2еаЫ,н'"lake for Coplnhaait''"'' specifically, ОДгШи' a beautiful ««ona coll of museums both lishments- oddball estab 'ЬадепЬаГиж' But TJftfie rest of ruralmuch "'Stibour, Funen Zealand's smaller "'"drawin Odei'' one positive '"ed for th otherwise sedate, cuteness of its villages, the sandy beaches of its southern coast a major holiday destination and numerous explotable small islands. Only Jutland (Jyllandl is far enough away from Copenhagen to enjoy a truly individual flavour, as well as Denmark's most varied scenery, ranging from soft green hills to desolate heathlands. In Arhus, Jutland also has the most lively and enjoyable city outside the capital. ¦ When to go Copenhagen attracts visitors all year round, but the intake peaks during July and August which means May, early June and September are probably the most pleasant times to be there, although there's plenty happening in the city throughout the year. Anywhere else is enjoyably crowdfree all year round except for July, the Danish vacation month, when the population heads en masse to fill the countryside and the coastal strips though, even then, only the most popular parts are uncomfortably crowded. Many outdoor events, from big rock festivals to local folkdance displays in town squares, take place from midJune to midAugust, when all tourist facilities and transport services lespecially the more minor ferry links) are operating in full. In more isolated areas things begin to slacken off in September.