Kirsti Simonsuuri (ed.) Enchanting Beasts (Forest, UK). A slender but captivating tome, and one of the few English translations of the best of Finland's modern female poets. DIRECTORY ADDRESSES In Scandinavia addresses are always written with the number after the street name. In multifloored buildings the ground floor is always counted as the first floor, the first the second etc. ALPHABET The letters A, A, 0, A and 0 come at the end of the relevant alphabets, after Z. ALCOHOL With the exception of Denmark, this is very expensive throughout Scandinavia. For spirits especially, you'll find it's cheaper to exceed your dutyfree limit and pay the duty than buying when you get there. ARCTIC CIRCLE This, an imaginary line drawn at 66° 33' latitude, stretches across three mainland Scandinavian countries Norway, Sweden and Finland and denotes the limit beyond which there is at least one day in the year on which the sun never sets, and one on which it never rises. BOOKS You'll find Englishlanguage books in almost every bookshop, though at about twice the UK price. Libraries, too, stock foreign language books. BRING An alarm clock is useful for early morning buses and ferries, mosquito repellent and antiseptic cream handy (vital in the far north), and a raincoat or foldaway umbrel la more or less essential. CAMPING Camping Gaz is only available from selected outlets in Scandinavia details from national tourist boards so take your own can. For hiking campers, a plastic survival bag keeps you and your pack dry. And take a torch. DEPARTURE TAX There is none in any of the mainland countries. GLACIERS These slowmoving masses of ice are in constant, if imperceptible, motion, and are therefore potentially dangerous. People, otter tourists, die on them nearly every year. Never climb a glacier without a guide, never walk under one and always heed the instructions at the site. Guided crossings can be terrific; local tourist offices and hiking organisations have details see the relevant accounts in the guide. LUGGAGE In most railway stations, ferr terminals and longdistance bus stations there are lockers. Also, tourist offices will often watch your stuff though sometimes they charge for this. MUSEUMS AND GALLERIES As often as not there's a charge to get in, though other than и the really major collections it's rarely very ISIC cards are valid for reductions at m"» Opening times vary greatly: in winter they з always reduced; the likely closing day is Monday NEWSPAPERS You'll find British newspape on sale in every capital city often on the oal issue as well as in many other large be Your only other choices are likely to International Herald Tribune or USA Today NORTHERN LIGHTS [Aurora Borealis] A shifting coloured glow visible during winter in the north em parts of Scandinavia, tfiought to be of electrical origin though you'll need to be in luck to see a really good display. TIME Denmark, Sweden and Norway are one hour ahead of the UK, except for one month (froni late Sept] when they are the same; Finland is two hours ahead, except for a similar autumn period, when it's one hour ahead. Denmark, Sweden and IVorway are six to nine hours ahead of the confineiita US, and Finland is seven to ten hours ahead, except for one month (from late Sept) when all four countries put the clocks back before the US does. DIRECTORY29 WORLD SERVICE You can keep in touch with British and world events by listening to the BBC World Service, which is broadcast to all of mainland Scandinavia. Frequencies vary according to area and usually change every few months. For the latest details write for the free Programme Guide to BBC External Services Publicity, Bush House, PO Box 76, Strand, London WC2.